“Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn’t do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover.”

~Mark Twain

Tuesday, June 26, 2012

What doesn't kill you...?


***Disclaimer: This post will address female circumcision and may not be appropriate for younger readers***

One of my best friends in my neighborhood is a young girl. She is about 6 years old. You are probably asking yourself what I am doing with a 6 year old as my best friend, but when you can barely speak susu, you get along better with people who play hand games and with your kitten then with people your age who just want to sit and talk. A few days ago she came over and to make conversation, I told her he hair looked pretty. It was braided with thread. My host sister told me it was because tomorrow she was going to the forest to get cut. She motioned to the area between her legs and said cut.

Female circumcision or as we call it in the US, female genital mutilation, is a huge problem in Guinea. During training we were told that 98% (or some similarly ridiculous figure) of Guinean girls are circumcised. It’s among the highest rates in the world. The only purpose it serves is cultural. It’s not like with men where it can help prevent infection. In girls, it helps to cause infections. The blades are not properly sanitized. They are shared between all the girls who are getting it done together. Girls can get AIDS. Girls can get other infections. The surgery is not done in a hospital setting. It is incredibly painful. It takes all the pleasure out of sexual intercourse for a woman. That is actually why it is done. If women do not enjoy sex, they will not stray from their husbands. Later in life it can cause childbirth complications, including fistulas, which cause women to leak urine at all times, leaving them completely ostracized from their communities. Anyway, that sidebar probably shows you how I feel about the subject.

So when my sister told me what was about to happen, I think she could read on my face that I found it upsetting. She then started laughing and saying that it was not true. She was lying. I was shocked that she would joke about such a thing, but many things shock me here so I thought no more of it

The next day, when I got home from work, I heard singing coming from the girls house. I asked my sister what was going on, knowing I was about to get an answer I wouldn’t like. She told me that yesterday she was not lying. Famtimou was having her circumcision ceremony. She told me to go over to the house to sing with them. Here lies my moral dilemma. I do not want to show support for this practice. By going over to the house, I am showing that I am ok with what they did. At the same time, I do want to show my support for the girl. If I don't go, then she will think “her fote” (as she calls me) forgot her or doesn’t care about her. I can’t explain how I feel to these women because I am not sure if my French can capture the nuances of what I am trying to say and I know my Susu cannot. Most of them don’t speak French anyway. I do not think that I can do anything to prevent this from happening to every other young girl in my neighborhood, so by taking a stance, I will not be changing anything. I may even hurt the level of community integration I have worked so hard for. At the same time, can I stand by and do nothing? I talked to another volunteer who suggested that I bring up my concerns with my host dad as he is kind and educated, but even that worries me. It is not something men talk about. The healing process takes a long time, so I still have some time to make my decision. Ever since training, I knew this day would come. I just did not think I would be confronted with this decision for the first time with a girl I actually care a lot about. What doesn’t kill you makes you stronger and growing up is all about setting your moral compass so I am trying to think of this as an opportunity to grow as a person and a potential way to start dialogue about a decisive topic. On verra. 

Saturday, June 9, 2012

It's not all fishy rice

Last Friday, I decided to treat myself and make hummus. I had bought a bag of dried chickpeas at the fancy supermarket in Conakry (for way too much money, but I hope I can stock up cheaply in Morocco) the last time I was there. Thursday night I started soaking them in preparation. Friday afternoon, I splurged and went down to our gas station to buy olive oil. You know your life has taken a turn when you buy all your luxury items at the gas station. I then went to the market to buy cucumbers, bread, onion, garlic, lime, hot peppers, and tomato. When I got home, I lit up my coals and started boiling the beans. With 15 minutes left, I added onions and garlic.




While that was all boiling, I used my newly purchased mortal and pestal to pound the hot peppers with some raw onion. Mabinty and Mohmed wanted to help


 I then added the boiled chickpeas, onion and garlic and mashed it all up with olive oil. I got a blister, but it was so worth it.
 I prepped the veggies that I would dip in the hummus.

I squeezed on lime, and sprinkled salt and pepper and Voila! only 26 hours after starting, I had a fresh plate of hummus.

Photos of the Ballet as Promised

The quality is worse than expected, but I'll share some anyway. It was hard to take pictures because I didn't want to expĂ©rience the ballet through the viewer of my camera....








Thursday, June 7, 2012

Avec La Joie...


Walking up a staircase in the 1960’s era Palais de Peuple, past a restroom smelling strongly of urine, I was jittery with excitement. I was about to watch a rehearsal for the Ballet Africaine de Guinee and even if they fell short of my expectations, I knew I was going to be wowed. I stepped onto the wings of the stage. There was a beautiful drop painted with images of the Guinean countryside. The stage lights were on gelled with warm oranges and yellows. I was hit all of the sudden with a sense of homecoming. For people reading this blog who don’t know me, I spent practically my whole college career in theaters and don't think I’ve gone 6 months without going into one- for a rehearsal or to see a play – since my mom started subscribing to Valley Forge Music Fair’s Summer Children’s Theater series at age 4. We (I was with 2 other volunteers and our country director’s husband) were seated on a set of couches at the edge of the stage and watched the director meticulously work with the actors as they marked through the piece. The intricate patterns of placement changes only heightened our excitement to see them dance it out for real. After about 30 minutes, they apologized for making us watch that and then started a run of part of their piece. I alternately cried, laughed, and sat with my mouth hanging wide open. It captured the spirit of Guinea- the frenetic market to the calm of a rice field at dawn. The dancers were physical and joyful. They were of all ages, shapes, and sizes. There were traditional musicians who would take center stage at parts of the ballet and with just themselves and their instrument would command the space like nobody I have ever seen. It was pure joy. These artists cannot regularly perform in Guinea. There is no market for it. They only get paid when there is some money coming in from people like me paying to see a rehearsal. They are artists because for them performing is living. They used to tour the US, but the last time a few of the dancers violated the terms of their visas and overstayed their welcome, so to speak, in the US. Because of this, I am one of the lucky few who have gotten to see them perform. I’ll post pictures as soon as I can. This was a happy reminder that anyone who says that the performing arts are not powerful could not be more wrong.

So in the morning I was amazed by the beautiful spirit of Guineans; by the afternoon my joy was tempered. As I prepared to travel back to Kindia, we got put on travel restriction. In Mamou (where we all just were for IST) a gendarme (soldier) asked a taxi driver for a 2000 GF bribe (<30 cents). It is terribly commonplace, but for whatever reason the taxi driver decided that he had had enough and argued with the gendarme. The gendarme took out a gun and shot him in the head at point blank range. I was at a wedding a few months ago where the groom found out that his grandfather had died the morning of the wedding. He said “Avec la joie, il y a toujours la tristesse.” With joy, there is always sadness. At the time, I was thinking, well that’s a truly morbid outlook on life. After the day I had, it’s hard not to start thinking that way in this country. I’ll keep you posted, but right now I have the feeling that joy is still winning.

If you are interested in reading more about the crime: http://www.bbc.co.uk/afrique/region/2012/06/120605_guinee_shooting.shtml